With travel of any kind a bit iffy again this year, domestic travel feels like the way to go. We took off for a road trip along the south coast during the Christmas break and it was truly a beautiful place. We wended our way up the coast before heading inland to visit our nation’s capital and climb Australia’s highest mountain. Trip highlights all below!
Orbost to Ulladulla
The first day we drove through Gippsland to get to our overnight stop in Orbost. Gippsland is so beautiful, it probably deserves a post all of it’s own (like this one). We went up through Lakes Entrance and took a quick break there to take in the views, as well as visiting a couple trestle bridges along the way.
It was a grey day, so a lot of my photos look a little dreary, so I’ve only included one. However, I would highly recommend Gippsland for rolling green hills, lovely lakes and a cooler climate than the rest of the south coast. Once we crossed the border to New South Wales I definitely felt the humidity creep up (ew).
The next day, we drove along the coast to Ulladulla. So much beautiful coastline! It’s like the Great Ocean Road, but with less cliff and more of a lush, sub-tropical feel.
Ulladulla to Jervis Bay Territory
Jervis Bay Territory is a little quirk of geography with some gorgeous beaches. Way back when they were drawing up the Australia Capital Territory, the powers that be thought that the new capital needed it’s own port and rail line, to ensure that it wasn’t ‘controlled’ by New South Wales. So, they drew a circle around a little portion of the south coast and Jervis Bay Territory was born.
They never built the port or the railway, but they do have a naval base there. Most of the population of this tiny territory work on the naval base. They also have some absolutely stunning white beaches. We stopped for a wander at Murray’s beach, as well as walking to the head of the bay to look out over Bowen Island.
It was pretty hot and humid, but nothing daunted we climbed the highest point in JBT. All 30 metres of it (lol). It was actually a nice bush walk along a 4WD track to the topographical marker. The marker was right next to part of the naval base, so I don’t know if they love people going there. Still, it was all publicly accessible so we walked up the little hill, grabbed our pictures and headed off.
We stopped by Hyams Beach for lunch. Hyams Beach is marketed as ‘the whitest sand in Australia’, but I honestly think Murray’s Beach was just as white and actually far more beautiful. Way less crowded too, so if you’re looking for a serene beach day, head to Murray’s. Just note, you will need to buy a park pass to get in there, which you can buy on the website ahead of time.
JBT to Canberra
Canberra was a welcome rest stop after a really full on couple of days. Australia is so damn big! Big days of driving and stop/start to pick up the lookouts was tiring, so we were happy to get to Canberra early in the day and just rest. The Mercure was so lovely. I was drooling over the beautiful 1927 architecture. I felt like I was staying in some Austrian resort!
The first night we went up Mount Ainslie to look out over the city and then went back to our room for pizza and SBS rail journey shows. It’s become a bit of a tradition for us that when we’re staying in hotels we watch doco and/or house hunting shows and make fun of them. Super niche and weird, I know. But, hey, we’re the people who visit tiny territories to climb 30m, so it’s par for the course.
Our full day in Canberra
Our day in Canberra was split between the Australian War Memorial and Parliament House. Due to covid, you’re now limited to a two hour window at the Memorial which was disappointing. We managed to get around most of it, but definitely felt rushed. We both agreed we could have spent three to four hours, there’s so much history to take in.
Afterwards, we went for our tour of Parliament House and then had a wander around by ourselves after the tour finished. It was cool to be in such a notable place. There were certainly interesting things to see. But, I’m just going to say it: I think it’s a really ugly building. It’s so very 1950/60s and I’m not about it. That pale green marble … :/
Heavy wet weather from Cyclone Seth caught us as we headed for the hills. We drove through torrential rain to our hotel in Jindabyne but I still managed to catch glimpses of fantastic scenery. The beach is fun, but I am 100% a hills girl.
Jindabyne (not south coast but still a winner)
Ah, the high country. I love being up in the mountains and it really is a beautiful place. Fun fact, the town is actually the New Jindabyne, as they sunk the original town when they built the dam and made Lake Jindabyne as part of the Snowy River Hydro Scheme in the 50s/60s. Most of the architecture is relatively new (and in my opinion bland) but the landscape makes up for that in spades.
Being a ski town, summer is the off season. However, there were still plenty of people there for water sports, fishing, mountain biking and hiking. This area had outdoor activities for all types, which was really fun.
We had two days there, which was lucky as the first day was mostly rained out. We walked part way around Lake Jindabye, but much of the path was flooded. As the rain set in for the afternoon, I had time to do some nature journaling, capturing some of the beautiful places we’d been. We also happened to catch up with a friend of my husband’s who lives nearby for a drink which was nice.
Mount Kosciuszko takes the cake
Day two we were up early to climb Mount Kosciuszko. We got there just before the ski lift opened, as we wanted to take it up part way. We’re a bit out of shape after lock down, so we didn’t feel up to hiking bottom to top. The chair lift was a bit pricey, but loads of fun. It was quiet in the early morning, and fun to silently glide higher up the hill.
The climb itself was very easy. There’s a lovely metal track through the park, with a gentle grade to the summit. Despite being advertised as a 4-6 hour hike, we did it in three and not even pushing. We’e found that any popular hike is usually over quoted for time and it held true here. Less notable hike times seem to be more accurate. Maybe they’re not trying to scare away tourists?
Despite not being a huge challenge, it was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever climbed. My view may be influenced by the fact that we were there early, so there were very few people about. Far more were coming up as we were going down, and it did dent the serenity a tad.
From the ski lift, you’re up above the tree line the whole way. You walk in this surreal landscape of low-growing alpine flowers, round boulders and crystal pools. There was no sound, other than crows calling and the burble of some melt-water streams. There was even a bit of soft snow still clinging in places. If ever there was a bit of country which is good for the soul, early morning Mount Kosciuszko is it.
The climb wrapped up our trip. We drove home through some mad winding roads, enjoying our last look at the high country. It’s good to be back, having checked off a bucket list item and de-stressed for the year ahead.
Great article!